A guide to Hawaiian coffee production

For most individuals, the very first thing that involves thoughts about Hawaiian espresso manufacturing will probably be one phrase: Kona. Kona espresso is among the many costliest on this planet, and it has turn into extra well-known lately following some legal battles over labelling.

Nevertheless, whereas Kona is probably Hawaii’s most well-known coffee-growing area, there are millions of farms throughout the state in complete.

Espresso first arrived in Hawaii around 1820. At the moment, it’s the solely state within the US the place espresso is grown on a industrial scale. Moreover, its volcanic soils and tropical microclimates make it excellent for rising specialty espresso. 

To study extra concerning the range of the Hawaiian espresso sector, I spoke to 2 espresso professionals primarily based within the state. Learn on to seek out out what they informed me.

You may additionally like our article on four things you should know about Hawaiian coffee.

A quick historical past of Hawaiian espresso

Brandon von Damitz is the co-founder and co-owner of Big Island Coffee Roasters – positioned on the eponymous island, which is the most important in Hawaii.

He tells me: “The historical past of Kona espresso dates again to 1828, when it was first launched to the Huge Island by Reverend Samuel Ruggles, who introduced seeds from Brazil to Hilo. Quickly after, seedlings made their manner over to Kona – the common-or-garden beginnings of what’s now a globally recognised espresso origin, protected by state legislation.”

“On the 1873 World’s Truthful in Vienna, Kona espresso acquired its first worldwide accolade,” Brandon tells me. “The Hawaiian espresso business was developed principally by the efforts of smallholder farmers and migrant employees.”

Many of those employees initially got here from Japan and China. Nevertheless, Brandon says that native Hawaiians additionally helped the regional espresso business to develop. On the time, most farms had been owned and operated by European and American colonists.

Nevertheless, Brandon explains that industrial agriculture in Hawaii has not traditionally favoured espresso as a money crop.

“Whereas espresso has been in Hawaii for practically 200 years,” Brandon explains, “sugar and pineapple remained the dominant crops of the islands throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.”

Hawaiian espresso survived, increasing and contracting within the twentieth century, till about 30 years in the past, when issues began altering.

Brandon says: “Throughout the Eighties, sugar and pineapple manufacturing began declining in Hawaii. On the similar time, international specialty espresso manufacturing began gaining momentum. As espresso lovers world wide sought larger high quality and extra ethically sourced espresso, Kona was capable of declare and keep a model of excellence within the eyes of espresso lovers.”

Hawaiian espresso at the moment

Because the Eighties, Hawaiian espresso manufacturing figures have soared. Extra Hawaiian farms now produce espresso than some other crop. In January 2021, the USDA reported that some 6,900 acres of land across the state are used for coffee cultivation.

Brandon says: “Hawaii produces roughly 5 million kilos (2.3 million kg) of inexperienced espresso per 12 months.” 

Whereas this does signify lower than 1% of all espresso grown on this planet, the nation’s espresso sector continues to be value some US $250 million – break up between manufacturing and consumption.

Juleigh Burden is a analysis assistant on the Hawaiian Agricultural Research Centre. She says: “Arabica is the primary species commercially grown in Hawaii. There are small quantities of robusta grown, however these aren’t commercially out there.

“Liberica is used typically as a rootstock for Kona if there are recognized points with pests, reminiscent of nematodes.” 

The root-knot nematode damaged coffee trees across Hawaii during the 1990s, affecting manufacturing volumes in consequence. Nevertheless, researchers had been capable of graft arabica vegetation onto liberica roots to create pest-resistant vegetation.

Espresso has additionally unfold additional afield since arriving in Kona within the nineteenth century. Whereas Kona stays one of the best recognized of Hawaii’s coffee-growing areas, arabica is now cultivated all throughout the state.

“The principle espresso rising areas are Kona, Ka‘u, Puna, Hamakua (all positioned on the Island of Hawaii), Maui, Kauai, O‘ahu, and Molokai,” Juleigh explains. “These are the most important by way of industrial manufacturing, however espresso will be cultivated practically anyplace on the islands. 

“There are even a couple of yard farmers who develop espresso as a interest for their very own private consumption.”

What makes Hawaiian espresso distinctive?

Since Hawaii is a US state and should observe federal minimal wage legal guidelines, espresso grown in Hawaii represents one of the vital equitable espresso provide chains on this planet. 

For instance, a median of roughly 5% to 10% of the associated fee paid by customers goes to espresso farmers world wide. Nevertheless, in Hawaii, it’s estimated that 40% to 60% (or extra) of the associated fee paid by customers goes on to the producer.

Juleigh provides that the terroir of the Hawaiian islands has a novel impact on the espresso grown there.

“Hawaii has appropriate temperatures, soils, and infrastructure in place to make rising, promoting, and exporting espresso worthwhile.”

She goes on to clarify that local weather, particularly, is a key level.

“Some of the essential elements to think about when planting espresso is the local weather,” Juleigh tells me. “Temperature is essentially decided by latitude and altitude.”

Because of this, not like many different producing nations, espresso will be grown at considerably decrease altitudes in Hawaii, at a most of round 1,000 m.a.s.l. This typically means much less acidity within the cup, which is why Hawaiian coffees are sometimes famous for being candy.

Nevertheless, Juleigh provides that Hawaiian coffees shouldn’t be generalised, as there will be key variations throughout the totally different rising areas. Whereas common temperatures typically stay the identical throughout the islands, rainfall fluctuates significantly from area to area. 

For instance, the Kona district is generally dry and sunny, whereas Puna, on the alternative facet of the identical island, is considerably wetter. This implies the state can provide a spread of flavour profiles and low experiences as numerous because the rising situations. 

Espresso rising areas of the Huge Island

Kona

The western Kona district is the most important coffee-growing space within the state, comprising some 900 farms alone. 

The Kona Espresso Belt lies between the slopes of the Mauna Loa and Hualalai volcanoes, and is an ideal location for rising espresso, due to its nutrient-dense, volcanic soils. The vast majority of espresso grown on the Huge Island is from Kona.

Kona espresso timber bloom from January to February and the fruits are harvested from August to December. After processing and drying, coffees are then graded based on measurement and high quality. Notable Kona grades embrace “Kona Additional Fancy”, “Kona Fancy”, and “Kona Peaberry”.

Many sorts are grown within the Kona area, together with the distinctive Kona Typica mutation. Whereas there aren’t any botanical data, it’s believed that when Guatemalan beans had been imported into Hawaii within the late nineteenth century, they naturally mutated as they tailored to the islands. Nevertheless, Brandon notes that different varieties are additionally grown in Kona.

“At Big Island Coffee Roasters, Kona Peaberry is our high vendor, however we’re additionally recognized for offering a various array of specialty-grade Hawaiian and Kona coffees roasted with care and a spotlight to element,” he says.

Kona espresso, recognition & labelling disputes

Through the years, Kona espresso has gained a status within the espresso business for its distinctive historical past and highly-prized flavour profiles. 

All through the Eighties, Kona was thought-about one of many highest high quality coffees on this planet. It was famend for its delicate, candy, and chocolatey flavours. At the moment, it nonetheless instructions a premium value; roasters shopping for 100% Kona inexperienced (unroasted) espresso typically pay over US $25/lb.

Nevertheless, with its status and excessive worth got here many imitation merchandise which have threatened to drive down the standard of espresso labelled as Kona. Because of this, within the early Nineties, the State of Hawaii launched a ten% Kona espresso mix statute. 

This legislation requires any espresso packaging that advertises the phrase “Kona” should comprise a minimal 10% Kona espresso by weight to ensure that the Kona identify for use. 

Nevertheless, through the years that adopted, many manufacturers took this as an invite to label espresso as being “Kona espresso” when it contained simply 10% of the costly Hawaiian beans. The remaining 90% had been typically of significantly decrease high quality, creating a less expensive mix that didn’t signify 100% Kona espresso. 

In a landmark case in March 2021, several US brands paid a total of US $13 million in a category motion settlement, regarding merchandise that had been falsely marketed as Kona espresso. Following the go well with, the Hawaii County Council handed a decision urging state legislators to make sure that all blends labelled as Kona embrace no less than 51% Kona espresso. 

Ka’u

Earlier than espresso, the southern area of Ka’u was a outstanding sugarcane producer. The first coffee tree was planted in Ka’u in 1997. 

In addition to being residence to wealthy volcanic soil, Ka’u is understood for having quantity of rainfall and loads of sunshine. 

Regardless of being a relative newcomer to espresso manufacturing, the area has flourished and scaled rapidly over the previous 25 years. Within the 2016/17 crop 12 months, it grew greater than 351,000 lbs of espresso. 

Hāmākua

Very like Ka’u, Hāmākua was additionally recognized for its sugarcane manufacturing earlier than it switched to espresso.

With solely 45 small farms, Hāmākua (which is positioned within the northeastern a part of the Huge Island) produces smaller quantities of espresso compared to Kona, Maui, and Ka’u. Nevertheless, it’s quickly making a reputation for itself within the Hawaiian espresso business.

Varieties, processing, and cup profiles

“At scale, the first processing strategies in Hawaii are washed and semi-washed,” Juleigh tells me. 

Nevertheless, experimentation with processing is turning into extra widespread, as Brandon says. “In the previous couple of years, yeast-inoculated washed coffees have actually began gaining traction. Honey and pure processed coffees are additionally turning into extra widespread as farmers discover ways to diversify their crop choices.”

Juleigh provides: “Extra not too long ago in Hawaii, some producers have began benefiting from revolutionary processing applied sciences, together with new types of fermentation.

“The annual state espresso competitions sometimes spotlight these profitable improvements, in addition to the distinctive varieties being grown.”

Brandon tells me that Big Island Coffee Roasters prides itself on providing a variety of various coffees to actually discover the breadth and variety of Hawaii’s terroir. 

“A few of our coffees embrace a washed Ka’u Maragogipe, a pure Ka’u Maragogipe, a barrel-aged Puna Caturra, and a black honey Ka’u Typica, for example,” he says.

As for a cup profile, Hawaiian espresso naturally varies relying on selection, terroir, processing technique, roast profile, and quite a lot of different elements. 

Nevertheless, Kona espresso is normally described as being clean and delicate with a silky mouthfeel. Frequent tasting notes embrace milk chocolate, caramel, and florals. In the meantime, coffees from Ka’u are typically described as being extra sturdy, wealthy and complicated, much like Colombian espresso.

As for varieties, Brandon says: “Probably the most generally grown selection throughout the state is Typica: you’ll find it on virtually all espresso farms. It additionally grows wild.” 

He additionally tells me extra about among the different varieties that develop throughout Hawaii, together with in Maui. 

“When it comes to acreage, Yellow Caturra is essentially the most planted. Different widespread varieties embrace Crimson Caturra, Crimson Catuai, Crimson and Yellow Bourbon, and Maragogipe. Gesha can be beginning to enhance in recognition with the extra progressive farms.”

Juleigh, in the meantime, notes that Mokka and Mundo Novo are each outstanding, and tells me that “many different varieties are grown in various portions”.

Hawaii might not account for a lot of the world’s espresso provide, however manufacturing is anticipated to extend considerably within the years to come back. Nevertheless, don’t let that detract out of your notion of it as a espresso origin: its beans are distinctive, complicated, and effectively value making an attempt.

Due to its distinct climates and varieties, and its wealthy, volcanic soil, Hawaii’s status as an origin appears set in stone for the years to come back. Simply make it possible for while you do search for Hawaiian espresso, whether or not it’s from Kona or elsewhere, you purchase from a roaster who ethically sources high-quality beans from farmers who love what they do.

Loved this? Then learn our article on coffee production in Madagascar.

Photograph credit: Big Island Coffee Roasters

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